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Decorative Painting

Modern Masters – Glazes

There are many glazes on the market these days, but not all are created equal.  Some have way more open-time (which is the time you have to work with the glaze before it dries) than others and creates what I like to call a “happy glazing day”!!!

I’m going to go into some depth about the Modern Masters Glazes and the preparation to make a “happy glazing day” for you!!!

First, it’s not all about the glazes (but they really do make a big difference), your surface prep is also very important.  To allow the glazes to work at their maximum capability, you need to have a “sealed” surface to work on.  This means that the paint you want to apply the glaze over needs to be at least a eggshell sheen or higher (eggshell is a sheen of paint – not a color).  So I like to work over paints that are Eggshell and Satin in sheen.  It is also helpful if the paint you are working over has had some time to dry/cure.  This means that the longer the paint dries the more time it’s had to cure and get hard, which then will not soften as you apply a wet glaze over the top.  The best case scenario is to paint the surface and allow it to totally cure (which could take up to 30 days), not that this isn’t realistic in the painting world……who has time to allow paint to dry for 30 days!  LOL!  At least give it some time to dry, maybe at least a day or two and your glazing will work much better.

So now you have a painted surface (Eggshell or Satin finish sheen) and you have allowed it to dry for a day or so.  We can now go onto the glazes and how they work.

Let’s talk about the Modern Masters Furniture & Cabinetry Glaze first.  This glaze is thinner, reminds me of an oil glaze but it’s not oil. It’s a fabulous water-based glaze!  You can mix this glaze with Colorants (like Universal Tints – Modern Masters Colorants – etc) or just about any paint.  Which provides you with an unlimited amount of colors you can create to glaze with.  If I’m mixing up a color with my Modern Masters Colorants – my basic recipe is 1 cup of Glaze to 3 tablespoons of colorant.  I love the depth that this value gives, but please feel free to adjust based on your needs. If you need something more sheer, try 2 tablespoons of colorant.  If you need it more rich and deeper, then you can add more colorant…..but do remember that the more colorant you add the faster the glaze can dry.  Now, most of the time when doing furniture or cabinetry the surface space is smaller so usually, this is not an issue (just food for thought)!

Modern Master Furniture & Cabinetry Glaze

Mixing the Furniture & Cabinetry Glaze with Paint:
Now you can pick just about any paint or color and mix yourself up a batch of glaze (always test a small amount to make sure the paint is blending together well and that it is a water based paint).  My basic recipe for this glaze is 1 cup of glaze to 1/4 cup of paint. You can also mix within the range of 5 parts glaze to 1 part paint and as high as 3 parts glaze to 1 part paint.  Now remember again, the more paint the faster it will dry.

If you haven’t done much glazing before, I would recommend a test sample board to get used to the mixes you have created and your techniques.

Now, let’s move onto the Modern Masters Wall Glaze!!  This product is much thicker and was designed to be applied vertically for use on walls. It won’t sag or drip and holds the tooling that you create well.  This glaze can also be mixed the same as listed above for the Furniture & Cabinetry Glaze, but you do want to try and keep your mixtures on the lower side of adding color, which could create an issue on the larger surface area that you will be dealing with.

Modern Masters Wall Glaze

“Open-time” or “Working Time” are words that we use to describe how much time you have to work/manipulate the glazes before they will start to set up and you don’t want to disturb them anymore.  This is a big deal as your surface area gets larger and Modern Masters Glazes have some of the best working time there is.  If you are on a well-sealed surface, you should have about 20-30 minutes of Open-Time – which is great!

I hope that you will check our these fabulous glazes and give them a try! This will make your glazing projects much easier and give you amazing results!

A Year Long Transformation!!!

I always have high hopes when I find a great piece of furniture to transform!  LOL  But, then reality sets in and I discover that my work schedule is just so busy, that I don’t have much time to paint!

I found this piece (guess is was a China hutch at one point) at least a year ago – thought it would be wonderful for my office and I would use it as a book shelf.  The current book shelf I have is falling apart and needs to be replaced!!!

Whatever paint that had been used on it was just scratching off – so I decided to take it back down to the wood……You know I LOVE to sand – NOT!!!

By the way – those wonder little dollies that the legs are resting on can be found at Harbor Freight – they come in two different styles and I own both!!!

Dollies for furniture

Now, the time that had already passed from the date I brought this to the shop, to the time I started to sand it was over a month or so…….so much for getting anything done fast!

Hutch section

Time to start at least the drawers.  I created my Hammered Metal finish using the Texture Medium and Ostrich Roller.  Tape off the drawer fronts to isolate the area, then trowel or brush on the Texture Medium.  While the Texture Medium is still wet, roll the Ostrich roller through it several times (I like the messy look).  Just allow the Texture Medium to dry and then sand down any of the peaks or rough areas.

Texture Medium & Ostrich Roller
Products used

Once the drawers were dry and sanded – then I painted two coats of the Modern Masters Antique Copper. After the Paint was dry, then I added a layer of glaze to create depth – Modern Masters Wall glaze and Tobacco Brown Colorant.

Textured, Painted and Glazed
Drawers Finished

All the drawers are finished – now it’s time to tackle the rest of this piece……LOL

Adding some color!

Finally adding some color to the base section – I started this in September of 2016 and I hate to admit that it’s April of 2017 and I’m still working on the same piece of furniture!!!  Talk about being a little slow…..

This was painted with DIY Paint Seaglass by Debi’s Design Diary – I love their Chalky paints.  Easy to use and great coverage.

Hammered Metal finish with Embossed Stencil

The ends of the cabinet were created with the same technique as the drawer fronts and I just added the Hampton Medallion stencil embossed with the Texture Medium (TM is wonderful for embossing stencils)!!!

Top of cabinet

I created a “Wet Blending” technique using both the Seaglass and Mermaid Tail DIY Paints and then stenciled with Bronze Foil!

Bottom section completed!

Bottom section of this cabinet finally completed – I think it’s at least June at this point!!!

I used my Foil Adhesive and Bronze Foil to transform the hardware!!!  This was soooo fast and easy!  Just apply one layer of Foil Adhesive and allow to dry to a firm tack and then transfer foil – I didn’t try for 100% transfer, I liked a little of the original color coming through.  Top coat to protect!

The massive hutch finally started – one coat of primer done!!!  This piece is really heavy!

It’s sometime in July and the hutch is moving along.  The back section of each “cubby” was created with the Hammered Metal finish – Texture Medium and Ostrich Roller – apply the first layer of paint.  Modern Masters Antique Copper – applied two coats!

Just about finished with the painting!!!  First coat of DIY Paint, Seaglass – love this stuff!!!

The complete hutch/cabinet – yes, I really do finish things!  I have discovered that if there is NO deadline for something, it takes me a year to do it……..that’s really not funny but it is what it is!

For complete details on the most of the steps to this project, watch the videos posted below – I did tape most of the process!!!

Hope you enjoy watching the process and my goal for my next project is that it only takes 6 months and not a complete year!!!  Next project in line is my dinning room table – hoping to start in October!!!  Let’s see how that works out 🙂

Blessings to all,

Jenn

 

 

Transform your Concrete into a Faux Wood Floor!!!

I always have tons of ideas running through my head – just not always enough time in the day to execute them all!!!  I’m sure most of my creative friends are in the same place – always more ideas than time!

But, I have to say that being a regular guest on Hometalk TV has pushed me to get a few of these things accomplished! Nothing like a deadline hanging over your head and having to go LIVE showing thousands of people how to do something……if something goes wrong, you have to “wing” it!!!  LOL

Well, my last Hometalk TV Live was really fun and I finally finished something that I had been wanting to do around my studio!  Still way too many white walls and plain floors around here……:(

The natural concrete floor through most of the studio.

I had been wanting to use one of my Rollers on the concrete floor and decided to section off an area and create a Faux Wood Grain White Washed floor!!!

Supplies needed.

There is not much needed for this project – just the Stamping Roller Handle Applicator (which comes with the foam applicator), Wood Grain Roller and Converter Bar.  Then you can pick the paint type and color you would like to work with. I used the General Finishes Chapin Gray Chalk Style paint – I wanted a matter finish and was needing something that would dry fast!

OH – don’t forget we do need to prepare the surface a little……..I swept the floor, got down on my hands and knees and cleaned with wet rags (boy was it dirty) – did this a couple of times!!!  Then I mixed a solution of 50/50 water and vinegar to “etch” the surface – this helps open the pours of the concrete and will allow the paint to adhere better.    Then I let the floor dry for a couple of days.

The next thing is to load the Roller and my best way to show you is to have you watch my video that walks you through the process of loading the roller:

This was fun and easy – it only took about 10 minutes to roll the entire area (10’x6′) and then about 30 minutes to hand paint some of the detail areas where the roller couldn’t fit.

I just used a Liner Brush and a little watered down paint to fill in the areas along the wall edges where the roller didn’t get close enough too or if the pattern skipped a little (but I personally love the imperfections that were left behind)!!!

Adding the finishing details with a Liner Brush.

Well – if you know me, I just couldn’t leave it as just a wood grained floor!  I had to pull out a stencil and create a little more Charm!!!

Hampton Medallion Stencil.

I used one of my all time FAVS – Hampton Medallion stencil with some Modern Masters Metallic paint in Teal!

Adding some stencil pattern.

I LOVE my new floor – so much Charm has been added to this area!!!

One last thing – need to protect all this beautiful floor!  I plan to use BM Stays Clear and put on at least three coats……we get all lot of traffic through this area!

Let the Fun of my Decorative Rollers enhance your projects – walls, floors, furniture, cabinetry – unlimited possibilities!  Check out all the fabulous patterns available on my website for Roller Heaven!!!

Here is the complete application of the process while on Hometalk TV Live!

Watch the final details and stenciling!

Blessings,

Jenn

 

 

Hometalk LIVE DIY – Metallic Foiled Crosses!!!

Large Wooden Crosses

When I discovered these large wooden crosses – I immediately fell in love and knew I had to Foil them!  All my friends and family have a cross wall in their homes and I knew these would be great gifts once I was done making them fabulous!

So I ordered a ton of these crosses, knowing that once everyone saw the transformation – you would want one!

Primed Crosses

I started out with priming them (probably not necessary – but I prime everything)!!!  The priming did raise the grain of the wood – so sanding was necessary.  Just a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper (btw – any paint I had used would have raised the grain of the wood – so sanding would be necessary no matter what) and I was ready for the next step.

Painted with Little Black Dress and ready to foil

I decided I wanted some contrast with the Silver Foil I was planning to use and painted the cross Black using Debi’s Design Diary DIY Paint – Little Black Dress.  I love using this paint – one coat of the Little Black Dress and I was done!

Now it’s time to get Foiling!!!  So, let’s talk about foils and what they are.  The metallic foils I use are a metallization on the backside of cellophane and we need a very tacky surface to transfer them.  You also want to make sure that you are working with easy to release foils – both of these things are necessary for a an easy and fun Foil Finish!!!

Transferring the Foil

First things first – let’s start with my amazing Foil Adhesive and apply one coat to the painted cross.  Allow this to dry to a firm tack (this can take 30 to 60 minutes and it doesn’t matter how long you leave it before transferring – it will never dry beyond a firm tack).  I used a Wooster low nap roller and rolled on one coat, you can easily see where it is – as it is milky white when applying and dries clear.

Now that our Foil Adhesive has dried to a firm tack we are ready to get Foiling 🙂  I have cut a piece of foil large enough for the project (if you have a smaller roll – cut enough pieces for you project). Lay the foil onto the tacky surface with the “shiny/colored” side facing up and smooth out the surface using a terry rag. Start transferring the foil by rubbing back and forth with the terry rag and see how much transfer you are getting – lift up one side of the foil and “peak” under to see the transfer.  If you have not received the transfer you were looking for – place the foil back down and get out your scrubber brush and scrub the surface in a vertical motion, then check again.  Once you are happy with the Foil transfer – remove the foil cellophane and you will have a Bright and Shiny Silver Finish.  No need to wait for anything – we can move onto the next step!!!

Pouncing Foils

(Pouncing Foil Option – crinkle foil up into a ball with the “shiny” side on the inside of the ball and pounce the foil onto the surface.  Keep re-positioning the foil to a new area and pounce as much coverage as you desire).

Stenciling with DIY Paints – Little Black Dress

I choose my Hampton Medallion stencil for this project – I love how it looks with in a all-over-repeat and figured it would be great for this project.  Position stencil at the top of the cross for your first repeat and attach with blue painters tape.  I’m using the DIY Paint Little Black Dress for the stenciling – I know this paint will cover very well.  For detailed stenciling instructions – here is a link to my Stenciling Video. Stencil the Hampton Medallion using the Little Black Dress DIY Paint and a dry brush technique – keep re-positioning the stencil until you have covered the entire cross.

Once everything was dry – I drilled a small hole at the top of the cross so that I could use ribbon to hang the crosses.

Here are a few other samples I created with the same process – just changing up the color options.

For more information on working with foils – check out this video – Installing Foils.

Hope you have enjoyed this fun project and get foiling!!!

Blessings,

Jenn

 

Hometalk LIVE – Coffee Table makeover!!!

Yard Sale find -  score!!!
Yard Sale find – $10 score!!!

I hope you had the chance to join or watch me on Hometalk Live – if not, make sure to watch it on Facebook at Hometalk Live with Jennifer 🙂  This was a ton of fun and I’m looking forward to my next project in December!!!  WOOHOO 🙂

As I always start my projects, this table went out the back door for a good sanding and cleaning – the previous owner had a “love-affair” with Pledge!  Many layer and layers of build-up needed to come off. Once the sanding was complete, I cleaned the table with a mixture of Vinegar and water 50/50 – this helps to remove dirt and grease.  Even with all my efforts – I still felt there was some of the Pledge build-up left and I was done with sanding (if you know what I mean)!!!  So to insure that all my efforts would stick – I decided to prime the entire piece with XIM Primer for adhesion (XIM has lot’s of different primers – make sure to find the one you need for your project).

Taping off center panel and priming
Taping off center panel and priming

I wanted to get the center panel done first, so I taped off at the recessed grove in the table and primed with XIM primer.  Allowed this to dry and then started on the Crocodile pattern.  Using my brand ArtsSyVille Embellishments Texture Medium – I troweled on a thin (1/16″ to 1/8″ thickness) layer of Texture Medium using my Japanese Trowel.  This takes a little practice using a trowel – but check out my YouTube Video’s for more instruction on this technique.  I troweled the Texture Medium over the entire center panel and while it was wet, I rolled the Crocodile Roller through the wet material.  As you can see the top had a stripe of wood that went down the middle of the panel – this was my guide.  I rolled through the center following the wood stripe and then rolled to the right and left – centering the pattern on the panel.

Crocodile Roller through wet Texture Medium
Crocodile Roller through wet Texture Medium
Crocodile Roller
Crocodile Roller

After rolling the Crocodile Roller through the wet AE Texture Medium – I removed the tape and allow the Texture Medium to dry completely.  While I was waiting for that to dry, I finished priming the rest of the table.  Once the Texture Medium is dry – you will need to sand down the “peaks” that the roller creates as it lifts up the material a little – I just sand by hand, using 150/220 grit sandpaper and sand by feel, not sight.  You just want to smooth out the rough areas – don’t element the pattern you have created.  Once it was sanded, I dusted and cleanup up the top to get it ready for it’s first layer of paint!!!

Table painted in Smoke and Old 57
Table painted in Smoke and Old 57

The center panel with the Crocodile roller was painted in the Modern Masters Metallic Smoke color – this paint color covers very well and I actually did get full coverage with one coat.  When you watch the video, you will notice that the metallic paints show very distinctive brush/roller marks – this is due to the metallic particles in the paint.  As you brush or roll in one direction, it’s laying the particles down in that direction, which shows the brush marks.  Best to brush in one direction to element as many brush marks as possible – I wasn’t worried with this project, I knew I was layering over it and everything else I was doing would hide those marks!!!  (But, I do suggest practicing with metallic paints – they are a little tricky).  The rest of the table was painted in Debi’s Design Diary DIY Paints Old 57 (one of my favorite colors) – I applied two coats for complete coverage, allowing the first coat to completely dry before applying the second coat.  Once all the base painting was completed – it was time for some Dry Brushing 🙂

Dry brushing Teal over Smoke
Dry brushing Teal over Smoke
Dry brushing Seaglass over Old 57
Dry brushing Seaglass over Old 57

I love the Dry Brushing technique – this adds depth and dimension while highlighting the texture.  To create a dry brush technique – first, you want to start with a Filbert style stencil brush or an older stiff Chip brush (it’s best with a stiffer bristle).  Pour a little paint onto a palette (or foam plate) and pick up a little paint on the bristles, work the paint into the brush and then off-load all the paint on a paper towel (yes, this seems crazy – but it’s the only way to create a true Dry Brush).  The dryer the better, this puts you in control of the paint and so you can place it where you want. With a light touch, brush over the area you want to highlight – on the top, I highlighted all the Crocodile pattern, bringing out the edges and creating depth – this was done with Modern Masters Metallic Teal (such a beautiful combination).  Then as I went onto the Old 57 on the rest of the table I used the SeaGlass by DIY Paints – I was looking to create a little more interest and highlight all the detail – this will be subtle when completed, but adds that extra depth that you don’t see all the time!

Sealing with Final Coat
Sealing with Final Coat

So, with my choice to use the DIY Chalky Paints – I did add another step for myself.  Which meant I had to seal the paint before glazing – Chalky paints are way too porous to glaze directly over and have any control of your glaze.  This is one of my FAV sealers and I love that you just wipe it on – Final Coat the Wipe on Varnish.  Just tip the bottle onto a staining pad – just allow a little product to come out and wipe onto the surface – it’s meant to go on paper thin and it dries within minutes!!!  Allowing you to go to the next step fast 🙂  I only wiped on one layer, which I knew would give me some control but I also wanted the glaze to grab a little and create a very distressed/aged look.  Once the Final Coat was dry – it was time to glaze this baby!!!

Black Glazed applied over Old 57/Seaglass
Black Glazed applied over Old 57/Seaglass

I did start with the center panel over the Metallic Smoke – which I knew would glaze easy.  I brushed on the American Paint Company Black glaze using a Chip Brush and then wiped off the excess, just leaving a little in the recessed ares of the Crocodile texture – this creates so much depth and dimension to the top and brings out the pattern!  I wiped most of the glaze off – still wanting to see the Teal that was dry brushed on 🙂  Then I started the top edge and worked my way down all around the table – it’s pretty scary brushing on a Black Glaze!  I worked in one section at a time, knowing that I only had one coat of the Final Coat and it was just giving me a little working time, but also still grabbing the glaze fast (but that was the look I was going for – Distressed/Aged).  I brushed on the glaze using the chip brush and wiped off the excess with Cheesecloth (I love using this stuff) – I left a lot of glaze behind, left more in the edges and corners to enhance the style I was going for.

If you want a cleaner more refined look with the glaze, make sure to use a least two layers of the Final Coat or a brush on varnish, which will give you better coverage and a more sealed surface. This will allow you to control the glaze better and you can almost pull all of the glaze back off, just leaving it where you want it.  There are so many looks that can be created with glaze – I think that’s why I love it so much – lot’s options and looks!!!

I waited for the entire piece to dry completely and with glaze this can be overnight.  I applied the America Paint Company Hard Coat for a durable finish (remember I have a household full of boys most of the time – we need durable)!!!

Make sure to check out my Fauxy Rollers page on Facebook – a great place to be inspired!!!

Completed Table
Completed Table

 

nov-22-149

Products Used:

XIM Primer

ArtsSyVille Embellishments Texture Medium

Decorative Pattern Roller – Crocodile

Modern Masters Metallic Paints – Smoke & Teal (you will have to call the studio for these products – not on website at this time)

Debi’s Design Diary DIY Paints – Old 57 & Seaglass

American Paint Company – Black Glaze & Hard Coat

Final Coat Wipe on Varnish – Semi-gloss

You can purchase all the materials and supplies through Artistic Painting Studio – If you don’t find something online, please feel free to call the studio at 714-386-3243.

Blessings and Happy Painting!!!

Jenn

 

A Fabulous Frame – Rollers and American Paint Company

This project was so much fun to create and I always love sharing with my videos – but I thought it would be great to provide you with some written instructions too!!!

My frame was create by a local wood-crafter that makes a lot of projects for me – this was designed to provide me with a wide frame area to create on and will be finished with a chalkboard installed. You can also try your local craft store – I’m sure they will have something fun for you to paint.

Frame painted with Home Plate by American Paint Company

I started out with painting the frame Home Plate – one of the colors by American Paint Company. Once it was dry, I wet sanded it to create a smooth surface – this was accomplished by using Cheesecloth and water. Just rub back and forth – it will remove some of the paint as it smooths out the paint. This is why a little of the raw wood was showing when I was starting to paint on the second color.

Painting on the Shoreline by American Paint Company
Painting on the Shoreline by American Paint Company

I picked Shoreline by American Paint Company for my contrasting color – I did want a strong contrast in color for this technique (and Shoreline is one of my favorite colors)!

I gathered the my supplies and the Chrysanthemum Roller for my second layer. This is where the fun begins!!! Just paint on the Shoreline, I painted one side at a time to allow the paint to set up a little, but not too much – need to roll through before it dries. Once you have an area painted, just roll through the wet paint and the roller removes the paint creating the pattern. It’s best to “off-load” the roller on some paper so that the roller will continue to lift the paint as you roll. I like to off-load after each section.

Rolling through the wet paint

Once you have painted the areas that you planned to roll through and all the rolling is done – I then finished out the sides and allow the paint to dry.

After everything has dried – I began to Distress the painting. I like using a wet-distress technique – Cheesecloth and water! You can spray the water onto your cheesecloth as well as spray water on the painted area that you plan to distress – I like to spray the painted area so that it’s easier to remove and I work less! Distressing is a personal thing to me – I think everyone has the “creative license” to distress as much or as little as desired – it’s a personal taste thing…….so distress as much as you would like! When using the rollers – it will peak up the paint and make a physical texture – I like to wet sand the surface to make it smooth as well as distress the finish. Again, after getting your project wet and distressing the finish – you will need to allow the paint to dry before you can do anything else……..I hate watching paint dry – so I usually have several projects going at once.

Spraying water onto the Cheesecloth

Distressing the finish with water and cheeselcoth

Now we are onto the Wax – I love what the wax does to the paint. It deepens the colors and brings out the richness of the paint. You can use your favorite Wax Brush or Cheesecloth to apply the wax – again, personal preference. Either way, less is best – don’t lay the wax on thick and heavy – it will take forever for it to dry. Thin wins with Waxing – just put on a small amount to the ends of your wax brush or pick up a little with the cheesecloth and rub it over the painted area – I try and spread it out as far as it will go before picking up more wax. (Also – you should always remove the wax from the container and put it onto a disposable surface – that way you don’t contaminate the entire can of wax).

Applying wax with European Wax Brush

Applying Dark Wax with Cheesecloth

I like to apply Clear Wax first – you can let the clear wax dry or you can just put the Dark Wax right over the Clear Wax. The longer you allow the clear wax to dry – the more control you will have with the Dark Wax. I went right over the clear wax with the dark wax – don’t even think I waited a minute – but I was looking for a darker distressed finish.

Completed frame and all your supplies

List of supplies and materials for this project:

Check out the video to watch the process and many thanks for watching and reading!!! Rolling with American Paint Company

Blessings,

Jenn